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Renewing America's Food Traditions - RAFT
RAFT launches regional workshops on traditional foods at risk
The
Renewing America's Food Traditions consortium recently held the
first of two regional workshops assessing the current status of
uniquely American traditional foods in our fields, streams,
kitchens and cafes. The first two workshops-- in the "Salmon
Nation" of the Pacific Northwest and the "Chile Pepper Nation"
of the Southwest borderlands-- brought together more than 50
farmers, fishermen, food historians, folklorists, chefs, and
conservationists to develop regional red lists of foods
deserving biological recovery, cultural revitalization and
culinary celebration. More workshops are now being planned for
Cornbread Nation, Clambake Nation and Bison Nation.
The
participants in these workshops first identify what foods are
unique to the region, and significant in its history and
cultural identity. They then assess which are "at risk"-- not
merely in terms of biological endangerment, but more
importantly, in terms of sustainable use by the region's
resident cultures. The goal is to develop more public awareness
of foods that need celebration and promotion, not merely
"protection" from further contamination, habitat loss or
competition. In this sense, the RAFT red list is unlike Seafood
Watch or Endangered Species lists that primarily discourage
harvest and use, because it focuses on conservation through
appropriate uses.
Nevertheless the final red list for Salmon Nation includes 180
distinctive foods of the Pacific Northwest, two thirds of which
deserve recovery and revitalization. It will be published in
March 2006. The list for Chile Pepper Nation currently contains
more than 300 food species and varieties unique to the Southwest
borderland state, but it too includes many foods that have
recently fallen out of cultural use. Surprisingly, many
varieties of chiles, squash, sunflowers, beans and corn that
were once mainstays of the Southwest region's cuisines have
fallen into disuse. The Chile Pepper Nation list will be
released to the public by Summer Solstice of 2006.
"Identifying a region's unique culinary treasures is a
participatory process that has involved experts from many
cultures, many non-profits and many professions as well as
avocations," explained Dr. Gary Nabhan, RAFT founder, based at
the Center for Sustainable Environments in Flagstaff, Arizona.
"We not only welcome input from all sectors from our society,
but encourage every inspired individual to adopt a traditional
food and bring it alive in his or her community once more."
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